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How London got its first Indian restaurant: The Hindoostane Coffee House
Dean Mahomed, born Sheikh Din Muhammad in 1759 in Bihar, India, epitomized the spirit of cultural amalgamation
Sake Dean Mahomed and his brainchild / Image- Wikipedia
While colonialism was engulfing and festering India like a termite, there was a man that was silently spreading Indian culture into the very hub of the colonizers. Sake Dean Mahomed, a figure shrouded in resilience and innovation, laid the foundation of the Indian culinary industry in the heart of the colonizers' capital.
Nestled at 34 George Street, London’s first Indian restaurant, The Hindoostane Coffee House was founded in 1810, and marked the genesis of Indian cuisine's integration into the British culinary landscape.
Who was Dean Mahomed?
Dean Mahomed, born Sheikh Din Muhammad in 1759 in Bihar, India, epitomized the spirit of cultural amalgamation. His upbringing, steeped in the ethos of the East India Company's military culture, laid the foundation for his pioneering venture.
After emigrating to Cork, Ireland, and later settling in London's prestigious Portman Square, Dean Mahomed envisioned a culinary haven that bridged the culinary traditions of his homeland with the cosmopolitan flair of London.
Under the tutelage of Captain Godfrey Evan Baker, an Anglo-Irish officer, Dean Mahomed honed his skills and navigated the intricate corridors of colonial society. His marriage to Jane Daly, an Irish woman, further cemented his ties to the British Isles.
Why was Hindoostane Coffee House so special?
The Hindoostane Coffee House wasn't merely a culinary establishment; it was a sensory journey through the vibrant landscapes of India. Dean Mahomed meticulously curated an ambiance that transported patrons to distant shores, with bamboo-cane sofas, ornate hookahs, and evocative paintings adorning the walls.
Unlike traditional coffeehouses of the era, the Hindoostane Coffee House dared to redefine food. Patrons had the opportunity to indulge in the age-old tradition of smoking hookah while savoring authentic Indian dishes meticulously prepared by top chefs from India. It even extended to the comfort of patrons' homes with a convenient home delivery service at that time.
Challenges
Dean Mahomed's entrepreneurial zeal faced formidable challenges, culminating in the closure of the Hindoostane Coffee House in 1812 due to bankruptcy.
The winding up of this pioneering establishment marked a hiatus in London's culinary landscape, with Indian eateries conspicuously absent for the ensuing eight decades. According to an article in the Friday Times, it wasn't until the 20th century that the resurgence of Indian cuisine began to take shape.
1911 witnessed a revival with the inauguration of Salut-e-Hind in Holborn, heralding a new era of Indian gastronomy in London. The subsequent decades saw the emergence of iconic establishments such as The Kohinoor in Roper Street and Curry Cafe in Commercial Street during the 1920s.
Dean Mahomed, the pioneering entrepreneur behind London's first Indian restaurant, passed away in Brighton in February 1851 at the age of 91, leaving behind a rich and multifaceted legacy.
Not only was he the trailblazer who introduced Indian cuisine to the British palate, but he also holds the distinction of being the first Indian writer in English.
It is perhaps upon the foundation laid by such pioneers that contemporary British culture now embraces Indian cuisine, with dishes like chicken tikka masala often heralded as quintessential to the nation's culinary identity.
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