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Indian Accent executive chef moves to Rooh, San Francisco
Executive Chef Valice Francis of Rooh SF / Image Courtesy: Ritu Marwah
Executive Chef Valice Francis, after having worked at Indian Accent restaurants in New York and New Delhi has come to Rooh, San Francisco as the head chef of the restaurant. He had delivered a menu that showcased flavors from the ustads of Indian cooking in an inventive style. His approach to Indian cuisine embraces global sensibilities.
As he moved across Europe he imbibed the delicateness with which flavors are showcased and married. “ I don't compromise on the recipes of the masters. I just plate the delicacies with a European flair,” he says. For instance, he wrapped scallops in pastry and added layers of chutneys. ‘Scallop Wellington’ was served on a web of mango madras spice sauce, This was an instant hit.
His melange of experiences in the kitchens of The Oberoi, Masala Library, Indian Accent, and across Europe, has seasoned his creative flair and menu style.
With a childhood in Purani Dilli steeped in Mughlai royal cuisine, Chef Francis remembers every grain of the yakhni-soaked rice from his mother's Old Delhi kitchen and the soft melt-in-your-mouth kebabs in his mamu’s house in Lucknow.
When he serves a Taro kabab in Rooh, it is a galouti kebab served on a healthy satu ki roti. From the streets of Banaras, comes the tamatar chaat served topped with Buratta and lotus stem crisps. “Indian food is getting as complex as French food,” commented the surprised diner.
Garlic Chilli crab toast, Jackfruit tacos, and Andhra Kohlrabi are some of the changes he has made to the menu. “I have changed 60 percent of the menu but kept in mind what Rooh’s clientele likes” added the chef.
Most of the traffic to Rooh, San Francisco is corporate, unlike Palo Alto where families come to dine. Fifty percent of the diners are not Indian American. Chef Francis keeps a tight hand on the spiciness of the dish. Too much heat could make the dish too spicy for the diner.
The chili garlic-infused crab with kafir lime served with small puffs of pao bread is a not to be missed treat. “ I might come back to eat this again,” said the diner as she wiped the bowl clean with the bite-sized pao. A meal in itself, the small plate is substantial.
Meaty Lobster served on a bed of crisp and fresh snow peas bathed with velvety moilee curry sauce created the perfect balance of textures. It was achieved by carefully selected ingredients and cooking techniques.
The airiness of the yogurt mousse topping the dahi puri is otherworldly. Stuffed with avocado, and flavored with tamarind raspberry, and mint, the semolina puri has a swirl of yogurt mousse atop this tiny cupcake which makes it into a melt-in-your-mouth experience. The sweet front with a salty finish.
“What is not to love? It is hard to stop at one.”
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